Winter in Ibiza - “Restaurant Road”
Wednesday, December 24th, 2008
Some five years ago we reported on the rather unusual ‘Restaurant Row’ in Ibiza, that locals know as the San Juan Road. It’s a stretch of innocuous country road from the middle of nowhere to San Juan, notable only for an extraordinary selection of diverse restaurants within the space of little more than five kilometers.
During the summer in Ibiza its reputation subsides into the shadow of the over priced and tourist dominated beach chiringuito restaurants, but it struggles through, ably supported by providing ‘insider’ food at ‘insider’ prices - these are the places to which the locals go…
And the term locals includes both the local Ibicencos and the resident ‘extranjeros’, so all tastes are catered for.
So as the bulk of the island puts up the shutters and prepares for a long winter of naval gazing, this quiet north side of the island wakes up…
In our last report we featured Es Caliu, which this year is closing throughout January for the first time in forty years, Can Gall, which has been shut all year awaiting a new owner, and Es Porrons, which has now changed hands and become Cicale, an Italian restaurant.
Further on down the road past Aura, the UK gastro-restaurant and pub/club, you’ll still find the typically Spanish Es Pins, Juanito, Balafia and Cana Pepeta family run restaurants. All have been running with their own traditional menu formulas for decades. So don’t expect to hear talk of the ‘crisis’ here, they’ve seen it all before many times over.
So how does the Restaurant Road look nowadays and when can you visit them over the winter.
Bambuddha Grove, the first and most spectacular restaurant, is to be found on your left as you take the first right hand bend after the roundabout that serves as your introduction to the Restaurant Road. A spectacular Thai restaurant, it’s only open for New Year’s Eve at this time of the year.
Next on the left is Ocho, another super hip venue frequented by the great, the good and the seriously attractive women of the north - and there are many. Ocho is the offspring of Jon and Leah of Formentera’s Banderas Hotel fame and is excrutiatingly English cool, but of the highest calibre.
To compensate for this, and in addition to their a la carte evening offerings, they run two extraordinarily successful English lunch menus. The first on Fridays is fish and chips, but presented in perfect haute cuisine style, at 9,50euros (6 for kids). The other is traditional Sunday lunch for 15/16 euros, but bear in mind that this is emanating from the kitchen of a five starred Michelin chef. You wouldn’t want to miss this.
To make it available to all, this roast comes with facilities to cater for children, who might otherwise make a restaurant dinner beyond contemplation. Perfect for those with young or energetic kids or grandchildren. They have a professionally run creche with proper kid’s entertainment organized by Katie Unsworth. Call it attention to detail if you like…
Around the next bend you’ll find the aforementioned Es Caliu and further along on the left the now idle premises of Can Gall. Next on the left is Cicale, formerly Es Porrons, an Italian restaurant that also has a winter following for lovers of fine Italian food, when it’s open.
A kilometer further on is Aura, which has achieved something of a reputation as a cool northern side venue for weekends. We reported last month on their party nights, but they too serve food in UK gastro-pub style during the summer. However, they’re shutting at the end of the year until the summer starts to break out again.
Continuing on along the road and round the corner by the huge balloon pines we encounter Es Pins set back on the right, which is most well known for its inexpensive and typically ample traditional Ibicenco midday menu. Es Pins is currently shut until mid February.
Then come Juanito and Ca Na Pepeta, both further along on the right. Juanito’s (aka Can Muson de sa Vila) is another ancient and typically Ibicencan restaurant famous for huge lumps of meat prepared on the open grill in the courtyard. Juanito’s closes on Mondays and will be shut from mid February until the end of April.
Ca Na Pepeta, in the rooms of a 120 year old farm house, again features an outside grill, but is more renowned for fish dishes than its neighbour. Ca Na Pepeta is open every day except Tuesday from 1 - 4 pm and 7:30 pm till midnight all through the winter. Opposite is the Restaurant Balafia set back in the trees. This is another traditional family run Ibicenco restaurant that is normally open in the winter at lunch time from 1 - 3:30 pm. This winter, unfortunately, they will be closed until April.
Nonetheless, it’s not all doom and gloom on the Ibiza Restaurant Road…

